It is getting cool when the sky begins to darken on June 30th. As we get out the car, we can hear the excited voices of children, see the various colors of yukata (Japanese garment) and the many yatai selling takoyaki (octopus ball), watagashi (cotton candy), ningyo-yaki (something like sponge cake) and so on. People form lines to the yatai that line the way to Sugimoto shrine. We push our way through the crowd and walk through under a Torii (a gateway to a Shinto shrine) and catch sight of the big circle about 250cm woven from imperata cylindrical–the “circle” festival is well under way. Continue reading “Circle” festival in Ino
It is a beautiful sunny day and on the small elementary school’s athletic field, about 200 people have gathered to join in a “sports festival”. Many children and adults play running race, a tug of war, and KIBASEN (knights on horseback) and so on. We can see some University students and exchange students too. Many neighbors or old people from all over the area also come to the sports festival to cheer them on. During the lunch time participants enjoyed foreign country’s foods made by exchange students such as tacos, Chinese fried rice, and fresh spring roll. This International sports festival produced by Kochi University students in a small rural area, Nanasato in Kochi. Continue reading Sports Festival in Nanasato
It’s one in the afternoon in the Ekin Museum called “Ekinkura” in Akaoka city. A woman in the museum says to me, “Watch your step. This way, please.” She passes me a paper lantern. When I turn on its switch, in the darkness, a blazing red color called “Chiaka” spreads out as far as the eye can see. Some look of pain on her face and there is bleeding from her lip, others are crying with laughter. They all have a lot of energy which seem just about to start moving or come from out of the darkness. And when I bring a paper lantern close to them, I suddenly notice that they are on the planar painting on a folding screen. “Wow! This is Ekin’s works!!” I’m here alone, but the words just jumped out of my mouth. I come here to learn about Ekin’s life, however, I become absorbed by Ekin’s fantastic works as I almost forget my central aim. Continue reading A Little Journey to Ekin
One day during Edo period, a Buddhist priest named Junshin was in a small accessories shop at the foot of Harimaya bridge with strained look. He wanted to buy a present for his girl friend Ouma. He had been hanging around the shop for a long time so he was become the focus of public attention. At that time, there is a regulation that priests mustn’t fall in love with someone, so it was very weird that a priest was even in the accessories shop. Then suddenly he entered the shop again like he determined something and gripped one kanzashi (a long ornamental hairpin ; Japanese women had used it to have their hair dressed in traditional style,) and bought it while hanging his head shyly. When he came out the shop, his face was full of delight and satisfaction.
土佐の高知の (In Kochi of Tosa)
はりまや橋で (At Harimaya-bashi)
坊さんかんざし買うを見た (A priest bought a kanzashi)
よさこい よさこい (Yosakoi, Yosakoi)
This is a stanza of yosakoi-bushi, a traditional folk song from Kochi. This is a kind of parody and the melody of Yosakoi-bushi comes from one of kiyari (木遣り) -bushi : a song for the construction workers. They had sung as shout encouragement while carrying some big trees and rocks. During the construction of Kochi castle, this Kiyari-bushi was sung by people in Kochi. Then one day, a person saw Junshin buy a kanzashi and he felt that his action was very strange so started to sing what he saw to the melody of Kiyari-bushi. And gradually this song spread around and has come down people in Kochi until now. This is an origin of Yosakoi-bushi.
Most people can imagine Yosakoi Festival easily when they hear the word “Yosakoi”. It is a very big and energetic and powerful event in Kochi, held on August 9 to 12 every summer and on 9, very beautiful fireworks are displayed. It started in 1954 to dispell melancholy mood of a recession and encourage people. And the highlight of this festival is Yosakoi-dance. It’s a form of Bon Odori dancing and people dance with Yosakoi-bushi and naruko, a wooden clapper. The festival always accepts experimentation with music and dance, for example rock music, hip hop dance, gorgeous hairstyle and costume and so on. Each team has its own originality and ardour so we spectators never get bored. But there is a rule the basic tune of ‘Yosakoi-bushi’ be used in one form or another. After all, Yosakoi Festival has been developed as an original culture in Kochi and introduced other sensitivities and different values freely. And all of this has been brought up by the place “Kochi” which can accept a new and different world.
There is a sweet ‘kanzashi’ which is named after the lyrics of Yosakoi-bushi. Hamakou ( the long-established company which runs the sweets shop, real estate and the hotel ) started to sell it in 1962 and it is always nominated as one of the recommended souvenirs in Kochi and now about 4million is made and sold in a year. It uses yuzu, a kind of citrus fruits and the special product in Kochi to express the bittersweet feeling of Junshin and Ouma’s love.
“We have been active to hand down the culture and the tradition in Kochi,” Yukihiro Hamada, the president of a company said, “recently people look so busy and don’t have any time to feel the seasonal change. I feel that they have been losing the minds which can enjoy the beauty of nature,” he continued strongly, “It is the sweets that can represent the beauty of season and nature. We want you in Kochi and you love Kochi to know the Kochi’s approaches and the worth of Kochi’s culture.”
The Yosakoi foundation is the thing that nothing can take the place of and filled with love for Kochi. Now Yosakoi-bushi is a basis of many present cultures and traditions in Kochi and so people have it in their own hearts, senses of value and the way of thinking. So this is the reason why Yosakoi-bushi is loved by people in Kochi.
Yosakoi-bushi has been loved for many many years and Junshin and Ouma’s love story has been loved, too. Unfortunately however, this love story didn’t have a happy ending. The rumor about them spread through the city due to Yosakoi-bushi and Junshin decided to elope with her. But immediately two were caught by the pursuers and punished because they broke the social rules. Junshin was banished from the country and Ouma was exiled to a far-off to east and the lovers never met again.
This story is very very sad but beautiful story. People in Kochi have a warm-hearted feeling and sincerity which can feel the beauty of this tragic story. And Yosakoi-bushi would not have been popular if its birthplace were not in here Kochi. At first, I just wanted to write the article about a sweet, kanzashi, but gradually I’m sure that I feel closer to the essence of culture and tradition through Yosakoi-Bushi.
Going along a coast road beside beautiful blue sea and sky, I reached Katsurahama. At Tosa token center here in Katsurahama park, we can see Tosa fighting dogs. Do you know Tosa-Inu? What do you imagine about them?
Tosa-Inu is Japanese cultural icon. They have big body and are brave. Perhaps you may have felt frightened of them. But the real ones are gentle.
Soon after I enter the center, I meet very pretty puppies. They are quite obedient and they seldom bark. Even when children pull their tails and play with them roughly, they don’t get angry. Continue reading Tosa Fighting Dog
Everyone is enjoying this festival with the various street stalls and the beautiful and awful pictures. They are just Ekin! They are here and there illuminated by candlelight. They are more awful than ordinary and use red like blood. Seen by candle, they are even weirder.
Every August, at 7:00 pm on the eve of the Yosakoi festival, people wearing traditional yukata and waving uchiwa fans crowd the banks of Kagami-river and line Tenjin-bridge. They leave their houses very early to try to find best place for watching. Best place for watching what? To see the fireworks display on a summer evening at Kagami-river! The air is filled with excitement and smells of sweat. They wait impatiently for the display to begin. It’s 7:30 now. With an announcement, the fireworks begin. The fireworks are fired off with various colors and roaring sound. The spectators utter few cries every time the fireworks are launched. Some people are opening their umbrellas because of the ash which falls from the sky. Continue reading Art of the Kayakuya: Fireworks
Kochi is at the height of summer. The sun is shining very strongly. I am on a motor bike on my way to Ochi town. It takes more than one hour to get there from Kochi city. It is exceptionally hot today. Soon after arriving in Ochi town, the heat made me jump into a river. Maybe it is the cleanest river I have ever seen. I am like a small child now. How did we lose our childlikeness like that? The one thing is certain. Becoming an adult doesn’t always have a good effect on us. That seems to mean losing our comfortable childhood, dreams and hopes. Some families are enjoying camping on the riverside, and some of them were frowning as if they saw something strange in the river…
If you come to 鏡野 (Kagamino) park in 土佐山田 (Tosayamda) town on a Saturday or Sunday middle of October, you’ll find many people there. What are they doing? It seems to be a festival. As you can see the picture, there are so many cutlery. We Japanese call cutlery to 刃物 (Hamono). That’s why this festival is called ‘Hamono festival’.
A car went through the lane, and a flag came into view. A shop was surrounded by private houses. I opened the door, the shop was jammed with big flags. Wherever I looked, there were big flags. Many famous characters which figure in history or are popular among children and adults were painted on these flags.
In the village of Karyogo, in Nahari town–which prospered in Taisho and Showa periods from ocean Tuna fishery–is a shrine named Nobumori Jinja. In the autumn once a year, the Jinsai festival is held to get the god’s blessing for catching lots of fish. At night there is a party, an “Enkai” where the good harvest is eaten with god’s blessings. The meaning of such a Japanese traditional festival is to share food and drink with god. Continue reading Our Sawachi